More than 2 million decks are built and replaced each year in North America.  It is estimated that of the 45 million existing decks, only 40% are completely safe!

Because decks appear to be simple to build, many people do not realize that decks are, in fact, structures that need to be designed to adequately resist certain stresses. Like any other house or building, a deck must be designed to support the weight of people, snow loads, and objects.  A deck must be able to resist lateral and uplift loads that can act on the deck as a result of wind or seismic activity.  Deck stairs must be safe and handrails graspable.  And, finally, deck rails should be safe for children by having proper infill spacing. Rails should be no more than 4 inches apart (measured from the inside of the rail) to keep small children and pets from squeezing through. This is especially important if your deck is elevated.

A deck failure is any failure of a deck that could lead to injury, including rail failure, or total deck collapse.  There is no international system that tracks deck failures, and each is treated as an isolated event, rather than a systemic problem.

Very few municipalities perform investigations into the cause of the failure, and the media are generally more concerned with injuries rather than on the causes of collapses.  Rail failure occurs much more frequently than total deck collapses; however, because rail failures are less dramatic than total collapses and normally don’t result in death, injuries from rail failures are rarely reported.

Here are some interesting facts about deck failure and what you can do to SAFETY READY your deck:

• More decks collapse in the summer than during the rest of the year combined.
• Almost every deck collapse occurred while the decks were occupied or under a heavy snow load.
• There is a slight correlation between deck failure and the age of the deck.
• About 90% of deck collapses occurred as a result of the separation of the house and the deck ledger board, allowing the deck to swing away from the house.
• The two most common ways to correctly attach a ledger to a structure are with lag screws or through-bolts.  The installation of through-bolts requires access to the back-side of the rim joist which, in some cases, is not possible without significant removal of drywall within the structure.
• Ledger boards should not be supported by stone or brick veneer.
• Ledger boards should not be attached directly (surface-mounted) to stucco or EIFS, either.  Stucco and EIFS have to be cut back so that ledger boards can be attached directly to band joists; however, cut-back stucco and EIFS are difficult to flash and weather-proof.
• Decks should not be attached to overhangs.
• Many more injuries are the result of rail failure, rather than complete deck collapse.
• Push on railings and banisters to make sure they’re secure. They should be able to handle 200lbs of force.
• Deck stairs are notorious for lacking graspable handrails.
• Tighten any loose fasteners (nails, screws, or anchors) and pound in any nails that have popped up.
• Rusted or corroded fasteners need to be replaced because they can cause the surrounding wood to deteriorate.
• Rot is wood’s worst enemy, so check several different areas of the deck to be sure the wood is still sound.
• Many high decks are supported with 4″x 4″ posts.  Tall 4″x 4″ posts twist under load and 4″x 4″ posts, even when treated, decay below grade too quickly.  In all but the lowest of decks, deck posts should be at least 6″x 6″, and be no higher than 12 feet; 14 feet is acceptable if cross-bracing is used.
• Many girders are improperly positioned to where they are relying on the sheer strength of lag bolts. Girders should bear directly on unnotched posts.
• Aluminum flashing is commonly available but should not be used.  Contact with pressure-treated wood or galvinized fasteners can lead to rapid corrosion of aluminum.

• There are three ways a joist can be attached to a ledger:
  • The first is by resting the joist on a ledger strip.
  • The second is by notching over a ledger strip.
  • The third is by hanging the joists with joist hangers. And joists should be fully resting in their joist hangers.

• Decks greater than 6 feet above grade should have diagonal bracing from posts to girder, and from posts to joists.
• Free-standing decks (not supported by the home or building) should have diagonal bracing on all sides.
• Guardrails should be supported by posts every 6 feet.
• Decks that are greater than 30 inches above adjacent areas should have guardrails around the edges.
• Decks should not be located where they might obstruct septic tank accesses, underground fuel storage tanks, well heads, or buried power lines.

Deondre Watson Jr. was killed in an accident that was rare, preventable and the subject of a continuing public awareness campaign.

The 2-year-old was crushed in his family’s kitchen here on July 11 when the stove tipped over on him. Safety experts say a simple bracket, required in some jurisdictions, would have saved him.

Last week, the boy’s parents, Deondre Watson Sr. and Diana Taylor, filed a wrongful-death lawsuit in St. Louis County Circuit Court seeking unspecified damages from the Oak Tree Apartments, where they live. They claim the landlord should have secured the appliance.

Their attorneys declined to talk about the case. The owner of the apartments, at 9715 Cedar Glen Drive, did not return calls seeking comment. The owner’s lawyer said they were not yet aware of the suit.

But the underlying story is well-known. At least 34 people have been killed in similar accidents across the country since 1980, according to officials and news accounts.

The accidents are frustrating for safety advocates, who have tried to years to get people to recognize the risk and react by installing a simple bracket.

“This is something that should never happen,” said Fred Pritzker, a personal injury attorney in Minneapolis who has represented several families in tip-over accidents. “We’ve known about this lurking disaster in homes for years. Yet it’s inexpensive and easy to fix.”

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission counted 107 incidents resulting in injury or death from 1980 through 2006. Those included 33 fatalities — nearly half involving children under age 2 — and 84 injuries. Regardless of age, most injuries were burns from hot liquids spilled from pots or pans when the range tipped.

Pressure put on an open over door, as from a climbing child, may result in enough leverage for a stove to pitch forward.

For example, Raven Holbert, 3, of Sedalia, Mo., died in December 2001 after she opened the stove door in her family’s kitchen while reaching for cookies on a countertop, according to court records. The blow to her chest left her dead two days later.

In 2009, a Modesto, Calif., toddler died two days before his second birthday when he climbed onto an oven door, according to news accounts. Investigators said he opened the oven to use the door as a step.

The problem dates to the 1980s, when appliance manufacturers began making stoves lighter. Eventually, the industry agreed to a voluntarily fix: It began providing anti-tip brackets beginning in 1991. Every new stove is supposed to include warnings and instructions on installing the brackets.

Now, the challenge is getting homeowners and appliance installers to use them.

In 2007, consumer experts estimated that as many as 45 million American homes had stoves without an anti-tip device.

“Often people move into homes where a range is already installed and don’t think twice about it,” said Jill Notini, of the Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers. “Or when the range is being installed, the homeowner may not be standing over the installer. They become aware of it after it’s too late.”

Many communities require a bracket as a condition of getting an occupancy permit.

St. Louis County’s code enforcement inspectors won’t pass a property unless the oven is installed to the manufacturer’s specifications. If the maker requires an anti-tip bracket, so do the inspectors, officials said.

Private home inspector Billy Boerner said about 95 percent of the properties he inspects in the St. Louis area do not have a bracket. He said he recommends them whether they are required or not.

“It’s a safety hazard,” said Boerner, owner of STL Home Inspection Services. “People don’t have a clue about it. People just don’t read the instructions to everything they buy.”

An after-market bracket costs about $30.

“Sometimes, people don’t necessarily want to put another hole in the floor or wall to tether the stove,” Notini said. “But that is short-term thinking.”

Joan Claybrook, former president of the Public Citizen advocacy group in Washington, pressed policymakers for years about this issue. “We tried to lobby Congress to ask for a recall,” she said. “They wouldn’t do it.”

Claybrook said the industry should redesign stoves to remain stable without a bracket. Manufacturers say their products are already safe, if installed properly.

Pritzker said that’s not enough. “When you are designing a product, your first obligation is to design out the danger,” he said. “It’s not just the fault of the person who bought and installed it. It’s the responsibility of everyone down the line.”

He said accidents have led to lawsuits against manufacturers, home builders and installers.

Many of his clients have settled such suits, he said, but he added that he cannot talk publicly about it because of confidentiality agreements.

In 2008, Sears settled a class action lawsuit in Madison County, agreeing to fix at least 3.9 million stoves that it sold and installed from July 2, 2000, through Sept. 18, 2007.

The company agreed to install anti-tip devices for free, or pay $100 to anyone who has paid Sears or a third party to install the device.

Story courtesy of: stltoday.com

The trouble signs are easy to spot, provided you know what to look for. What’s more, contractors aren’t as busy now, so they’re likely to be more flexible on price. Here are the five biggest red flags of home maintenance, with our advice on how to deal with them. No problems? Check out these Simple spruce-ups.

1. Runaway rainwater

If there are 10 things that can go wrong with a house, 15 of them have to do with water. Gutters, downspouts, and leader pipes collect rainwater and channel it away from the house. In very wet regions, leader pipes should extend at least 5 feet from the house. Check the entire gutter system seasonally for proper pitch, clogs, corrosion, broken fasteners, and separation between connections and where gutters meet the fascia board.

The soil around the foundation should also slope away from the house at least 1 inch per foot for 6 feet or more. If you have planting beds along the foundation, make sure the grading of the bed, its edging, or the edge of the lawn isn’t keeping water from draining away from the house either.

2. Roof and siding

Roofs are the most vulnerable to water infiltration, given their exposure to the elements and the laws of gravity. On a sunny day, use binoculars to spot cracked, curled, or missing shingles, which are signs that the roof is near its end of life. Also check flashing around chimneys, skylights, and roof valleys, and the rubber boots around vents for cracks.

Siding is also susceptible to leaks, especially where it meets windows and doors. A $5 tube of caulk might save you thousands of dollars in structural repairs. If you live in a cold climate, check the siding under the roof eaves for water stains, which could be a sign of ice damming. Adding attic insulation and sealing gaps around pipes, recessed lighting, and ducts into the attic might help prevent future damming and lower your heating and cooling bills.

3. Pest infestations

Termites and carpenter ants gravitate to moist soil and rotting wood, another reason to make sure your gutters are in good shape and soil around your foundation is graded properly. Also keep mulch, firewood, and dense shrubbery away from your foundation. Once termites infiltrate a home, they can bore through the structure in a few short years. Formosan termites, which are prevalent throughout the South, have been known to rip through studs and floorboards in a matter of months. To detect termites, probe the sill plate (also called a mudsill) that sits on top of the foundation with a screwdriver to check for rotted wood. To check for carpenter ants, look for piles of sawdust along baseboards. Regular termites also shed wings along windowsills, walls, and other entry points.

Rodents gravitate toward disorder and debris, such as leaf piles around the foundation. Plug holes in the siding and the foundation walls with expandable foam. Don’t forget to look up for signs of birds, bees, or squirrels in soffits and attic vents.

4. Mold and mildew

Even houses in arid climates aren’t immune. Hot outdoor temperatures can drive even small amounts of water trapped in the structure to condense on colder interior surfaces, leading to mold. Musty odors, dank air, and family members with chronic runny noses are warning signs. Check under carpets and around windows for visible mold or mildew. Also remove cover plates for cable-TV, phone, and Internet connections, and use a flashlight to peer behind walls and wallpaper for mold.

If indoor mold covers less than 10 square feet, treat it yourself with a homemade solution of 1 cup chlorine bleach per gallon of water. Be sure to don an N-95 disposable respirator, goggles, and heavy-duty gloves. Professional remediation is required for larger outbreaks, if the ventilation system is contaminated, or if an allergy sufferer lives in the home.

5. Foundation cracks

Some cracks are harmless, but others can mean trouble. A good suggestion is to walk around the house with a No. 2 pencil in hand. Hairline cracks are probably the result of concrete curing or minor settling and can be filled with an epoxy-injection system. But if the pencil can go into the crack up to the yellow paint on the pencil, that’s a pretty wide crack and might be a sign of a major problem. A ruler is another handy tool: Cracks wider than 3/16 inch, even vertical ones, can be a problem. Mark smaller cracks with tape and monitor their progress over the coming months. Also be on the lookout for horizontal cracks or bulging or buckling. Along with expanding cracks, those conditions require the attention of a structural engineer. The longer you wait to correct a problem, the more costly it will probably be.

More red flags

·   Cracks at upper corners of windows and doors (uneven foundation settling)
·   Mushrooms or fungus growing out of siding (moisture in the walls)
·   Soft boards or loose rails on outdoor decks (decaying deck structure)
·   Soggy ground and lush vegetation around septic tank or leach fields (overfilled or failing septic tank)
·   Missing or torn insulation in attic (pest infiltration)
·   Scratches or algae on siding (overgrown trees or plants)

STANDARD INSPECTION

Whether buying, selling, or maintaining a home, a standard home inspection is a very important in determining the current condition of all the homes major components. This service will include a thorough visual evaluation of the exterior, electrical system, heating and air conditioning systems, plumbing components, water heating devices, roof system, attic, crawlspace, basement, and most interior components of the home. Pricing includes a full report with color photos and is determined by the square footage and age of the home.

BUYERS/PRE-PURCHASE INSPECTION

In both new and older homes, the best way to ensure that you are well informed about the strengths and weaknesses of a property is to have us give you a professional home inspection. We are trained to identify problem areas both small and large that may have been overlooked by the previous owners and to identify which require immediate attention.

SELLERS/PRE-LISTING INSPECTION

Whether you are selling your home on your own or using a realtor, it’s always a prudent idea to have a professional home inspection. Knowledge is power. All homes have strengths and weaknesses: we help you answer how serious the problems are and which must be immediately addressed and which can wait. The more you know about your home, the more prepared you will be for negotiation.

WARRANTY INSPECTION

Most builders provide a one-year warranty for new construction. Generally during this period of time the buyer develops a “punch list” of corrections for the contractor to repair under the warranty coverage. Some defects will not be obvious to the untrained eye. It is prudent to obtain our home inspectors list of items that will most likely be repaired by your builder at no cost to you. You will be reassured knowing that potential problems were addressed before they grew into something that could cost you a great deal down the road.

“OUT OF SIGHT OUT OF MIND” INSPECTION PROGRAM

Have you ever heard the saying “if it is out of sight it is out of mind”? This annual program is designed for homeowners who have concerns about their homes attic space and crawl space areas. These areas are generally not maintained properly because of the limited amount of time spent in these areas throughout the year. This program is offered to all Standard Home Inspection clients at a discounted rate. Discounted Pricing is as follows:

$125.00 per year for attic and crawlspace inspections (based on a 2,000 sq. ft. home or smaller, larger homes will be slightly more).

$75.00 per year for crawlspace only inspections (based on a 2,000 sq. ft. home or smaller, larger homes will be slightly more).

1. Buyers can consider the reported conditions of the home’s systems to determine their ability to afford and maintain the property.  A home with a 12-year-old water heater, an 18-year-old furnace, and a 25-year-old composite-shingle roof is going to need some costly investments in the near future.
2. Buyers can sometimes use information regarding undisclosed defects to negotiate the seller’s action to repair the defect(s) or adjust the asking price for the home.
3. Sellers can obtain a home inspection and use the report to disclose known defects to potential buyers.
4. Sellers can obtain a home inspection and use the report to identify and correct significant defects that could interfere with a buyer’s desire to submit a contract to buy the property.
5. Buyers can use the inspection report as a punch list (or to-do list) for maintaining the property after purchase.
6. Buyers/Sellers can use the report to communicate to contractors the nature of the defect(s) to obtain estimates for repair or to arrange for repairs or replacements.
7. Buyers can sometimes use the inspection report as a means to withdraw from the contracted agreement to purchase the home when certain types of undisclosed defects are reported.

This story courtesy of: Home Inspection Services of Missouri

One reason buyers are unprepared for what lies ahead is that lenders tend to tell them the maximum they can afford based on their incomes, with little regard for the “extras” such as utilities, upkeep and improvements. You’re told what your monthly nut for principal, interest, taxes and insurance — the all-important PITI — will be. But likely because you won’t know exactly what the other costs will be until you actually move into your new castle, they are rarely mentioned. And as a result, many borrowers who mortgage themselves to the hilt often find themselves “house poor.”  They own a home, all right, but they can’t afford anything else.

Rookies who are transitioning from an apartment are usually better prepared than those who are making the move from the family nest. Renters probably paid at least something for their utilities, whereas those who are leaving the friendly confines of Mom and Dad’s house have probably never had to dig into their own pockets for food, let alone electricity. As owners, though, they, not their landlords, are responsible for electricity and/or gas, water and sewer and trash removal. Then there’s propane if you have a gas fireplace, the phone bill if you want a landline, and cable if you expect to watch television. Utilities are a big add-on. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, the typical family spends $1,900 a year — $158 a month — on home utilities.

Another significant expense all buyers, not just first-timers, tend to forget is what they’ll spend for furnishings, appliances and property alterations. A recent 2007 study by the Harvard’s Joint Center for Housing Studies shows that consumers spent an average of $14,206 on home improvements during their first two years of ownership. But according to NAHB’s research, most of the extra spending — 60 percent — occurs within the first three months after taking occupancy. The spending doesn’t stop there, though, especially if you’re buying a previously occupied house. There’s also the cost of upkeep.

Whether you are moving into a new or old home, you need to be aware of the ongoing maintenance any home requires.
Obviously, a new house will take less to maintain than an existing one, at least initially. But even new houses have minor issues that need to be addressed. And it’s best to take care of them early, before they become major headaches. It’s impossible to tell when something is going to go bad, but something always does. Maybe the water heater will die or the roof will spring a leak.

A home inspection before you buy should provide you with an idea about what, if anything, is on its last legs. And a good inspector should be able to estimate the age of the home’s components and systems. Compare that to the life-cycle list at the NAHB website — and you’ll have a rough idea of when you can expect a major outlay.

For example, furnaces typically last between 12 and 15 years. So if you are moving into a 10-year-old house, you can figure on having to replace the furnace in two to five years. New or used, buyers should figure on spending 1 percent of the home’s value per year for maintenance. Consequently, if you are moving into a $200,000 house, figure on spending $2,000 annually to keep the place in good operating condition.

An appraisal assesses the market value of a home. Typically, a bank requires an appraisal when approving a loan for either the purchase of a home or the refinancing of an existing loan.  This process is often mistaken by the homeowner as a home inspection. While an appraisal confirms the home’s market value to ensure the lender is not over-insuring the property, it is not intended to provide a thorough assessment of the overall condition and safety of the home.

According to The Federal Housing Administration (FHA), the lender conducts an appraisal to estimate the value of a house, to make certain the house meets FHA minimum property standards and is marketable. However, during a home inspection a qualified inspector takes a detailed look at the physical structure and systems of a house, from the roof to the foundation. The average time taken to conduct an appraisal is merely a fraction of the time it takes a certified home inspector to perform an inspection of the same house.

Unlike an appraisal, an ASHI home inspector’s report will examine the condition of the home’s:

• Heating system
• Central air conditioning system (temperature permitting)
• Interior plumbing and electrical systems
• Roof, attic and visible insulation
• Walls, ceilings, floors, windows and doors
• Foundation, basement and structural components

ASHI reminds homeowners that a home purchase is not the only time to consider scheduling a home inspection. Even if you plan to remain in your home for several years, the benefits of a home inspection are invaluable.  Homeowners should schedule a maintenance inspection every three to five years to identify problems before they become costly repairs. A home inspection can also help homeowners identify potential issues as part of a major remodeling or renovation project.

“Even as the economy begins to bounce back, it is still so important for homeowners to plan ahead and protect their investment,” said David Tamny, ASHI president.” A basic maintenance home inspection can save the consumer the cost and inconvenience of an expensive repair down the road. An ASHI certified home inspector can often spot potential problems before the damage happens.”

Homeowners and homebuyers can find a local ASHI certified home inspector to schedule an inspection on the association’s website. ASHI’s “Find an Inspector” tool allows homeowners to locate an inspector in their area by language or services provided. Always check with your local inspector for a complete list of services provided.

Article Courtesy of ASHI.

A home inspection is simply a visual examination of a house’s overall condition. The home inspection report describes a house’s physical shape and identifies what might need crucial repair or replacement. Although what’s covered in a standard report can vary by inspector, typically the status of the following will be included: heating system, central air conditioning system, interior plumbing and electrical systems, roof, attic, visible insulation, walls, ceilings, floors, windows, doors, foundation, basement and all structural components.

So, what are the deal breakers of a home inspection? That depends entirely on you. What is and is not a deal breaker depends on each person’s preferences and needs. For example, an inspection that identifies damaged floor joists might be a deciding factor for one person who feels the problem is too expensive or time-consuming to fix.

However, the same trouble with joists might be absolutely acceptable for another client who has resources to fix the issue. A home inspector does not tell a customer whether or not to buy a house. Rather, it’s his or her job to provide all the available information so that home buyers (or sellers) can make the decision right for them.

If you’re considering buying a house and an inspector identifies problems with it, this doesn’t automatically mean you shouldn’t buy it. The findings simply mean you now know what you’re getting into. If the plumbing needs to be replaced in six months, at least you won’t be surprised when it happens. If major problems like this are found, the seller may agree to make the repairs. Of course, no house is perfect. It’s quite normal for a residence to have some glitches. It just depends on how many faults you’re willing to deal with before you walk away from the sale.

Home inspections differ based on the person or organization conducting them. The American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI), for example, is not required to check for wood-destroying organisms or diseases harmful to humans, including molds or moldlike substances. Many inspectors offer services to check for these things, although some will ask for an additional fee.

ASHI recommends checking an inspector’s qualifications, including his or her experience, training, professional affiliations and compliance with your state’s regulations (if applicable).

What Not to Expect – A home inspection is not an appraisal, which determines market value, and it’s not a municipal inspection, which verifies local code compliance. Inspectors won’t survey the inaccessible areas of a home; they don’t do any kind of destructive testing – only noninvasive visual assessments. The report won’t include the condition of every nail, wire or pipe in the home. The report also does not guarantee a home’s components will never fail or need repair in the future.

Home inspectors come in as many shapes and sizes as homes. Find a qualified individual who will provide a detailed inspection and useful information. You should look for an inspector that is a member of a professional organization such at the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI), the NARI Home Improvement Council, or a similar construction related group. This insures you have an individual who was taken the time to be involved in the industry on a professional level and has meet the qualification standards of the group.

The ASHI group also provides a nationwide “standards of practice” that assures a certain level of inspection standards. Inspectors who work under the ASHI standards also conform to a code of ethics – the inspector may not have a commission agreement with real estate agents, and will not do any of the repairs he may recommend. Members must pass an exam and the organization provides continuing education programs.

Check references and backgrounds. Call several inspectors and don’t be too sensitive to the cost – you are paying for the time and experience of the inspector. The time of an experienced individual will cost more. A cheap inspection may just be that – a quick and cheap inspection.

Require a written report and ask about the details included in the report. Every major system and component should be inspected. This includes the structure, attic, roof, electrical, heating and air conditioning, plumbing, basements, kitchens, bathrooms, and interiors. Home related operation and maintenance information should also be included. The inspection should last about 3 hours and you should be encouraged by the inspector to attend.

Preparing for the inspection

This is your chance to take a good, long look at your new purchase. You should prepare a long list of questions in advance. Include anything you can think of and anything you noticed during your previous tours. Ask questions during the inspection.

If you have any particular concerns, relay them to the inspector prior to the inspection so he can focus on the potential concern. This is your chance to get independent opinion from a professional who is working for you. Use his expertise to your advantage.

During the inspection

The best time to ask your questions is during the inspection so you can both look the component or system in question. A good inspector will appreciate your interest and should take the time to answer all your questions.

The inspection should start with a through explanation of the report you will be receiving and an explanation of the inspection process. Most inspectors will provide a written inspection contract that explains the inspection and it’s limitations. This contract should be explained in detail and you should read it and understand it before you sign.

Remember you have hired the inspector and you need to be happy with the quality of the inspection and details covered. The homeowner and real estate agents do not need to be part of the inspection and discussions. If agents are present and kept informed, however, they will have first hand information and can see the conditions identified preventing confusion down the road.

Inspectors should also be very respectful of the owners and the owners property. The inspection should not disrupt the home or damage any finishes. The property should be left in the same condition at it was found.

The written report – Pass or Fail?

Homes don’t “pass or fail” and inspection. Every home has significant qualities and potential problems. Your inspector should identify and explain these traits in the written report. The inspector should also explain why a problem may exist and how to solve it. Often an inspector can provide references for additional information. A problem with a home is not necessarily a reason to walk from a deal or re-negotiate.

All homes have potential problems and many can be avoided through preventive maintenance. Your inspector should help you define the maintenance required to catch little problems before they are big situations. For example, exterior grading improvements can often prevent significant basement problems. Use your inspector to help with your maintenance concerns and to identify maintenance needs.

Inspectors do not provide an appraisal or a municipal code inspection. The inspector will describe the condition of the home in relation to similar homes of similar age. The report should identify items that will be in need of repair immediately or in the near future.

Safety hazards do fit into the “Pass or Fail” category. Conditions such as a damaged combustion appliance should be reported as a safety hazard that needs immediate correction. Inspectors can find problems that need correction for the safety of the current occupants.

Ask questions and beware of the know-it-all

Don’t be satisfied until you understand the information presented. If you don’t understand, ask questions. A good inspector will simplify terms and information presented. If the electrical system has “reversed polarity”, you need to understand that is not related to the rotation of the north and south poles and global warming. A “thermo pane” is not the severe pain you experience in the center of your skull when you eat ice cream too fast.

Remember inspectors will not “know it all”. If you find an inspector who has absolutely all the answers, be suspicious. An inspector who says “I need to check on that” should be respected. When he takes the time to research a question and provide follow-up information, you have received valuable and accurate information – not just a guess on the spot.

Value of the inspection

For a few hundred dollars, a quality home inspection will provide an independent perspective on the condition of a home. This can reduce the risk of major “surprise” after closing. An inspection can reduce the anxiety of a buyer by screening for problems and identifying them in a written report. The inspection offers the buyer an excellent opportunity to take a good look at their new investment.

Story courtesy of the Wisconsin Home Gallery Magazine.

This is what happens when the condensate drains from the air conditioner are allowed to drain down the exterior wall of a house. There are two things wrong with this setup:

1. The condensate discharge lines have no slope. They should have a 90 degree turn down to keep condensate water from wicking back up into the structure of the home.

2. The primary condensate drain line is draining down the brick wall and at the base of the foundation.

When I see this, I always recommend a licensed HVAC technician extend it to at least a foot away from the foundation to help minimize erosion of the exterior and foundation.